This fertile plateau above Cairns sits at an elevation of about 1000 metres (3200 feet) so temperatures are more pleasant here. It also gets about 1000mm (40 in) of rain a year. I think it must all be falling while we are here. We had two one-week stints in the town of Atherton at the Woodlands Big4 CP, the first when we couldn’t extend our stay in PD and the second on the way west. Surely my favorite CP so far as we were parked in a private area of shady trees with only the occasional tent camper joining us in our little piece of heaven. We weren’t inclined to dine outdoors as the evenings were actually too cool and, as I said, rainy for short but regular intervals. Needless to say, the rain made for some abundantly flowing waterfalls, one of the signature features of the Tablelands. There was a Supa IGA grocery about a kilometre from us and it became our favorite FNQ supermarket with its plethora of local fruit and veg as well as local dairy products, including milk, yogurt, and cheese from 3 well known dairies. Our favorite is Mungalli Creek Dairy, a family run bio-dynamic establishment that produces simply the best ricotta cheese and Davidson plum yogurt in the world (IMHO, of course).
We made a 2nd visit to Kuranda to check out Barron Falls and discovered the “Kuranda Original Rainforest Markets” which we missed the day we did the train and skyrail. A charming collection of colorfully canopied stalls selling the usual crafts and trinkets but this one had a special flair that appealed to us. AND it had one helluva food stall called Falafellicious, manned by a delightful Israeli guy.
Then of course we did the waterfall crawl, a drive that wended its way throughout the ancient volcanic craters exhibited as low-lying bumps in the terrain. There were several falls that were quite spectacular for one reason or another and I’ve thrown in a few pics of these so you be the judge.
The birdlife at Nyleta Wetand, Hasties Swamp National Park, was astonishing one morning when we walked in the rain to check this out. There are 231 species that hang out here and on this particular morning there must have been thousands of Plumed Whistling Ducks nestled together. My iPhone photos were too pathetic to publish here but we hope we don’t forget the sight of all these birds.
Last but not least, we experienced two thrilling wildlife sightings here, creatures that most Aussies never see in the wild in a lifetime. More on those in the photos below.
There are only a few ways to cross the Great Dividing Range to the Atherton Tablelands.This felt like our own private woodlands at the Big4 Atherton.Hard to believe this Mareeba welcome but it was a sunny moment when we came upon this sign.The Brahma is easily identified by the hump on its back. It supplies the region with beef.This display of art exemplifies the dairy industry in the Tablelands.
Coffee is another product that grows around here. We got a personal tour of Jaques Coffee Plantation from Jason Jaques.These termite mounds line the entrance to Jaques Coffee Plantation. These are found only north of the Tropic of Capricorn and supposedly point north.
This Curtain Fig tree near Yungabarra boggled the mind with its immenseness. That’s little ole me in the bottom middle to give you an idea of the scale of this monster.Beware, the dreaded Wait-a-While Palm can deliver a surprise sting.Meragallan Road offers stunning views of the Tablelands countryside.Lake Tinaroo is very low this year. Not sure how that can be, it rained most of the time we were there.The sign says it all.The bush turkey seemed to show up everywhere. They tend to travel solo and they rustle in the bush, always starling me as I hoped for something more interesting.Millaa Millaa Falls (and my finger didn’t get stuck on the keyboard) in their glory.Uncle Dave’s Tours take busloads of mostly young women to Millaa Millaa to have their photo taken.Little Millstream Falls was another one of our favorites.Ellinjaa Falls was one of the harder ones to reach as the path was muddy and steep.Granite Gorge made for great scrambling.At Granite Gorge this rock wallaby and joey were so friendly it was as though people were feeding them. Turns out they were!Falafellicious at Kuranda MarketsThe incredible edible FalafelKuranda Markets are a bit of a tropical garden paradise.Indications of the volcanic history of the Tablelands.This looks like a turtle, but we are told its a terrapin. This one spends most of its time in water.The platypus blind at Peterson Creek.So this was one of our favorite sightings – our first platypus in the wild at the viewing platform. Oddly it was the middle of the day and this critter was having an unlikely frolic with an audience.A platypus sighting at Tarzali Lakes Park. A few facts: it’s a mammal that lays eggs instead of birthing and females average about 18 in (45cm) in length. The male can deliver a venomous sting to humans that is seriously painful. It has a bill like a duck, a tail like a beaver and webbed feet like an otter. Sort of a phenomena in the animal kingdom.
Another prize wildlife sighting was the Tree Kangaroo. They are extremely elusive but they are territorial so if one is sighted in an area, that’s probably where you will find him again if you are persistent and lucky. They didn’t look as much like a kangeroo as a monkey.This Lumholtz tree roo is one of two kinds in the world, found only in New Guinea and the wet tropics of N Queensland. They have incredibly long tails that keep them balanced (you can see it handing below the limb this female is on).This one spends almost all their life in the tree-tops. The mate & raise their young high above ground and sleep on a horizontal branch curled forward with their tail hanging between their legs.When curled its fur works like an umbrella channeling water over its head and off its back.
12 thoughts on “Atherton Tablelands”
Fabulous blog again. Just love reading and looking at all you great photos. How wonderful to spot a platypus and tree kangaroo in the wild. Amazing and such a thrill.
Wow! You’ve seen so much! And your photos are great! What a great trip you are having! We visited Jacques, and those termite mounds were HUGE!
Keep up the good work on your blog! My quilt guild asked me to give a short talk about quilting in Australia and NZ. So I’m displaying all the fabric and books I collected, and sharing thoughts on my visits to many quilt shops. Should be fun! Travel safe!
Mary, there are a few of us oldies who are active and I absolutely LOVE how active you all are! Thanks for keeping up the fun travelogue and amazing photos.
Top pics as usual, and our unique and sometimes freakish wildlife must be must as fascinating to your American friends as they are to us! Keep it coming folks!
Joe and Mary,
Enjoy your posts. What a wonderful way to see the world. Susie and I do it on a smaller scale but have fun nonetheless… last week camped at Mammoth Lakes and Rock Creek Canyon in the Eastern Sierras. In May we got up to the top of the Olympic Peninsula in Washington, with stops in central Oregon and Washington along the way. Alaska next year…
G&S
12 thoughts on “Atherton Tablelands”
Fabulous blog again. Just love reading and looking at all you great photos. How wonderful to spot a platypus and tree kangaroo in the wild. Amazing and such a thrill.
Wow! You’ve seen so much! And your photos are great! What a great trip you are having! We visited Jacques, and those termite mounds were HUGE!
Keep up the good work on your blog! My quilt guild asked me to give a short talk about quilting in Australia and NZ. So I’m displaying all the fabric and books I collected, and sharing thoughts on my visits to many quilt shops. Should be fun! Travel safe!
So interesting – are you going to do a book? you should!!
Mary, there are a few of us oldies who are active and I absolutely LOVE how active you all are! Thanks for keeping up the fun travelogue and amazing photos.
Lovely!
Captivating account as always!!
And it helps a lot when you fully explain each photo.
Green with envy.
So beautiful! Oh, the sights you are seeing!
Oh my gosh Mary Kay! Your photos are truly AWESOME! You do wonders with that camera of yours. Thanks fo sharing.
Spectacular waterfalls, Mary. And, of course, I loved Jacques Coffee Plantation!
Top pics as usual, and our unique and sometimes freakish wildlife must be must as fascinating to your American friends as they are to us! Keep it coming folks!
Hi Mary and Joe: Aunt Pat and Theresa thoroughly enjoyed this chapter 🙂
Joe and Mary,
Enjoy your posts. What a wonderful way to see the world. Susie and I do it on a smaller scale but have fun nonetheless… last week camped at Mammoth Lakes and Rock Creek Canyon in the Eastern Sierras. In May we got up to the top of the Olympic Peninsula in Washington, with stops in central Oregon and Washington along the way. Alaska next year…
G&S