On to Port Douglas

On to Port Douglas

About one hour north of Cairns lies a beautiful beach town called Port Douglas. The best aspect of The Port is the fact that there is no development directly on the shoreline. The four-mile stretch of sand is fringed in palms and casuarinas, is pancake flat which makes it ideal for walking the distance, and firm which means its bike-friendly. The resorts that lie beyond the border of woodland are no more than three stories and the one road into town is not littered with tacky commercial activity, but lined in stately coconut palms. Everything about the place seems understated and moderately upscale. There happen to be 2 caravan parks along the main road and both are chock-a-block from June through September. Neither is particularly impressive in appearance but the location only a five minute walk from the beach and less than a mile into the restaurant/shopping precinct, mean they can charge what they like for the ideal spot. We weren’t able to secure a site until someone had an emergency that sent them packing. So we started out camping about 5 miles outside of town in a nice Big4 caravan park in a bucolic setting. There were a two positive aspects to being a little out of town. The setting was a garden of tropical vegetation and the birdlife amazing. A dawn chorus woke us every morning and it was quite spectacular in volume and variety. There was also a terrific walk/ride down the narrow rural road which was a bit of a highway for the exercise fiends each morning. Our neighbors were a couple from Geelong whom we made a habit of meeting for cocktail hour just about every evening.

The weather along the coast here is warm – mid 20s (high 70sF) – but humid, unseasonably so, at 75-80%.  Tolerable if you don’t budge. The ocean temp now is 23…pretty perfect…and cool enough that stingers aren’t generally present at this time of year. Crocs are still around but we saw people swimming all the time so apparently they aren’t a real issue here. There are days when there is nary a breeze and zero surf. But every time we thought to plan a snorkeling trip, the clouds would return and wind would pick up.

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Port Douglas aka The Port is only 70 km from Cairns and we made a few trips down to Cairns for supplies (namely hardware and gin) during our month around The Port.
View of The Port from the highest point.
View of The Port from the highest point.
We loved the cacophony of birdsong at dawn every morning on this site.
We loved the cacophony of birdsong at dawn every morning.
A can train runs right past our CP near Port Douglas.
A loaded sugar cane train runs right past our CP near Port Douglas.
The cockatoos tend to gather here each morning.
The cockatoos tend to gather here each morning.
A typical one-lane bridge on our morning walk route.
A typical one-lane bridge on our morning walk route.
A little holiday rental just down the street from our rural CP.
A little holiday rental just down the street from our rural CP.
This outback dude entertained us with his stock whip-cracking at the CP one evening. He had a routine he performed to an AC/DC tune that was crowd-rousing. If I can figure out how to post the video I will add it.
This jackaroo entertained us with his stock whip-cracking at the CP one evening. He had a routine he performed to an AC/DC tune that was crowd-rousing (see our first attempt at a video below).

 

A serene harbour at The Port.
A serene harbour at The Port.
The West African tulip blooms are out-of-control.
The African tulip tree blooms are out-of-control. It is apparently a weed but we love it.
The daily Port report.
The daily Port report.
What a day for the beach!
What a day for the beach!
Toys for hire.
Toys for hire.
A then another kind of day at the beach.
A then another kind of day at the beach.
Our new favorite fish...coral trout. This batch was being shipped to Hong Kong only to fetch $100/kilo. Here we might pay $45/kilo.
Our new favorite fish…coral trout. This batch was being shipped to Hong Kong only to fetch $100/kilo. Here we might pay $45/kilo.
Coral trout tacos at the Surf Club.
Baji style beer-battered coral trout tacos with chipotle slaw at the Surf Club…$16.50.
Tempura tiger prawn crunchy sushi roll with avo, mango salsa & kabayaki sauce at the Surf Club...$16.
Tempura tiger prawn crunchy sushi roll with avo, mango salsa & kabayaki sauce at the Surf Club…$16.
Kilo of prawns fresh off the boat for $12.50.
Kilo of prawns fresh off the boat for $12.50.
A beautifully tempting wild mushroom.
A beautifully tempting wild mushroom.
The crown jewel of Anzac Park.
The crown jewel of Anzac Park. (No not Joe, I’m talking about the fig tree!)
The main street of The Port is a mix of restaurants, bars and shoppes.
The main street of The Port is a mix of restaurants, bars and shoppes.
Nothing like combining your exercise and your career making a sugar cane drink.
Nothing like combining your exercise and your career making a sugar cane drink at the Sunday market.
These coconut heads reminded me a of an old friend of my parents who had a few of these hanging in his rathskellar in the 1950s.
These carved coconut heads reminded me a of an old friend of my parents who had a few of these hanging in his rathskellar in the 1950s.
Breakfast after a day at the Port market.
Breakfast after a day at the Port market.
Off to the Great Barrier Reef on the Silver Sonic.
Off to the Great Barrier Reef on the Silver Sonic. I decided to play it safe and not bring my camera, just my iPhone. We also opted out of taking underwater photos.
We snorkeled at 3 different sites. At the first the reef was colourless and lifeless. But the next was better and the fish were more interesting as well. The last site was one coral head that was surrounded by deep water.
We snorkeled at 3 different sites at Agincourt Reef. The first reef was colourless (bleached).  According to the Aus govt, as the climate changes, coral bleaching is predicted to become more frequent and severe. Sea temperature increases and coral stress increases its vulnerability to bleaching. The last site was one 40-foot circular coral head that was surrounded by deep water.
Returning to The Port. The trip was great, the boat and crew were the best, but the reef was showing lack of care.
Returning to The Port. The trip was great, the boat and crew were the best, but the some of the reef was disappointing.

 

13 thoughts on “On to Port Douglas

  1. Great pics as usual, Mary. Loved the jackaroo and his whip-cracking. Have you got Joe practicing for a program at the library when you visit Cali next time? Congrats on your citizenship.

  2. Fabulous photos and commentary. Love love love it! The seafood looks amazing and great deals at the Surf Club. Nothing like fresh prawns straight off the boats. So happy you are having a ball!

  3. That was a genuine whipper snapper! GREAT video.
    We’ve booked our flight and will join you soon! I LOVE fresh prawns!
    XXOO

  4. Are you seeing evidence of environmental degradation in the coral reefs? According to a report by the World Resources Institute, 75% of the world’s coral reefs are at risk from local and global stresses. So when you said that some of the reef was disappointing, I’m wondering if it is evidence of stress, or those were just reefs that happen to be on the tail of the bell curve.

  5. So sad about the reef! I remember the colours at Lady Musgrave off ‘1770’ being amazing so hopefully you can be captured if you make it down there!

  6. Heartbreaking to hear about the coral bleaching, we have some of it occurring off of Roatan, as well. Otherwise, your photos are gorgeous, as always, Mary. Love your food shots, too – everything looks yummy!

  7. Just catching up – looks like a fun time, darn weather at the beach, how rude..
    Now to go west….
    Love youse all, Hils

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