We’ve left too little time for NSW but because it isn’t quite so far from Melbourne, I have tried to tell myself it will be easier to return. The Great Dividing Range follows the coast and we wanted to really spend some time here, but it’s surprising difficult to explore these mountains because a lot of it is wilderness and roads are not abundant. We nearly got nailed by a low bridge which loomed before us on a lonely narrow road. At the last moment I noticed there was a detour for tall vehicles and we were saved. This was really a wake-up call that taking the road less traveled has its travails and I was regrettably hesitant to attempt any potentially risky routes after this.
Back in NSW along the north coast we didn’t drive far to find special places to explore.
Byron Bay is a legendary beach-town and the first spot on mainland Australia to welcome the golden orb in the eastern sky. In the words of Lonely Planet: “It’s here the coastal surf culture flows into the hippie tide washing down from the hinterland, creating one great barefooted, alternative-lifestyle mash-up”. Byron also has a fair share of musos (musicians), and more than a fair share of “off-the-leash” teens. Controlling its mixed blessings is an issue for the locals but our visit was well-timed to avoid most of the rat-race. However, we were in residence for the November super moon, a cause celebre on Tallow Beach. Byron’s excellent Thursday farmers market is a true farmers market with beautiful produce, no trinkets, no souvenirs and no handmade goods except for the edible variety. Since we have readers (and frequent commenters) living here, I’m sure they could add a lot to this description.
The lighthouse at Byron Bay is a beauty. Given its distinction as the easternmost point of Australia it attracts a lot of visitors. There’s a challenging loop hike for the cardio crowd with lots of steps and lots of fantastic views out to sea.The Pass is a great place to observe surfers of all kinds. On this side of the lighthouse the wave action was generally tame but beginners could catch these gentle waves for a long ride. It was tempting!The epitome of Byron’s surfers as this one heads to the beach.A calm lovely scene near Main Beach, Byron.
Next stop: Iluka. A drive down a wooded peninsula leads to this quiet unassuming holiday town. The Clarence River, 2nd largest in Australia south of the Tropic of Capricorn, separates it from the bustling Yamba. We did a fair amount of cycling on each side of the river.
A former Sydney ferry boat is a fun mode of travel across the Clarence River between Iluka and Yamba. Here is the point where the boat navigates through the “middle wall” a shallow-at-low-tide spot that divides the Clarence.As we docked in Yamba we saw scores of blue blubber jellyfish but apparently these aren’t the venomous version. Think of them as the mosquitoes of the sea. Still, you couldn’t pay me to swim here.Riding down a shady street, I suddenly passed in front of a massive fat, long tubular shape. I shouted out to Joe behind me, “SNAKE!!!”, but it was too late. He rode his bike right over the beast and didn’t even realize it. Luckily the snake didn’t realize it either. You can right click on this image, then “view image” if you really want to see it better.Unperturbed it slithered slowly off the road and into the bush. Joe thought he had run over a speed bump! In reality it was a carpet python, and non-venomous. But before we realized all this we were sure feeling an adrenaline rush.The Green and Blue Pools of Angourie were neither green nor blue but this hourglass was a bit more contrasting in color and action.Further up the Clarence River, the Scottish heritage town of Maclean sports painted power poles in varying tartan designs.
The last of the north coast at Urunga was a little bit different. Our caravan park was located near the mouth of yet another stunning estuary. Apparently the townsfolk here felt it was too far to reach the surf beach via road so they constructed a boardwalk that extends one kilometer out through the waters of the estuary.
The beauty of this caravan park was its location near the mouth of the river. Naturally the tidal activity made for an ever-changing landscape that captivates. On the right is a glimpse of the boardwalk out to the sea.This scaly-breasted lorikeet couldn’t be deterred from trying to join our party.A few thousand kilometres south of Far North QLD there are still rainforests in places like Dorrigo NP.The Aussie film Shine starring Geoffrey Rush was based on the story of David Helfgott. This piano memorializes the town of Bellingen’s claim that he’s their son.Looking back toward the hinterland where the Kalang and Bellinger Rivers join at Urunga.
9 thoughts on “New South Wales north coast”
Those blue blubber jellyfish are looking a lot like hands! Glad Joe made it over the “Speed Bump”
unscathed. Your Aussie tour continues to amaze me.
We wish you a very Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year! Hope your time in Melbourne gives you some respite and energizes you to continue your travels with gusto in 2017!
We will be spending Christmas in NYC with Beth and family. Then back to the northwoods for
New Year’s Eve.
Carol & Mike
Fabulous! I love traveling vicariously through your great words and beautiful photos❣️Thank you so much for sharing! Merry ? Christmas and Happy ? New Year ?
Hi Mary,
Was so fantastic to see you at book club the other week. We all hope you come back and visit us again soon.
I saw the first pic of the snake and thought how lucky you were that it wasn’t a tiger, brown or red belly but thought you possibly wouldn’t know what they liked like anyway to know that was a python. Was most amazed that you stopped to take pictures so up close and personal…. so you must have known all along it was a python, right? That’s why you stayed to take pics ? Don’t hang around to take pictures of the poisonous ones ok? They’re not so friendly. Enjoy your travels and xmas xoxo
Your pictures continue to be amazing – the snake was more than a little scary!! Have a wonderful holiday! Are you continue your travels next year? When are you even going to return Stateside – of course, new leadership makes it discouraging!!
Mary & Joe,
Others have expressed themselves better than I can, however I continue to enjoy your travels. I was surprised to learn that you will be back in Melbourne for Christmas. So I will be wishing you a very Merry Christmas & a very happy & healthy New Year! As well as to continue your exploration of Oz. Your notations under each photo are excellent too. Say how ’bout that low bridge that. You nearly lost your heads over. & joe thinking he wrode over a speed bump when in fact in fact it turned outto be a python . Oh good god, Mary I can see this adventure be coming a movie!
I would LOVE to test those waves on a surfboard!
Last year I ran over a snake on my bicycle; unfortunately, this little guy (Florida Indigo Racer) didn’t fare so well. It broke my heart. But glad Joe – and your snake – both survived! Merry-Merry and much love to you both from Don and me!
9 thoughts on “New South Wales north coast”
Those blue blubber jellyfish are looking a lot like hands! Glad Joe made it over the “Speed Bump”
unscathed. Your Aussie tour continues to amaze me.
We wish you a very Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year! Hope your time in Melbourne gives you some respite and energizes you to continue your travels with gusto in 2017!
We will be spending Christmas in NYC with Beth and family. Then back to the northwoods for
New Year’s Eve.
Carol & Mike
Cool snake!
Fabulous! I love traveling vicariously through your great words and beautiful photos❣️Thank you so much for sharing! Merry ? Christmas and Happy ? New Year ?
Can’t believe the summer feel of your photos – we got over 4″ of rain today!
Joe and Mary, your interesting and well photographed travelogue continues…well done!
Cheers
Peter & Clare
Byron Bay
Hi Mary,
Was so fantastic to see you at book club the other week. We all hope you come back and visit us again soon.
I saw the first pic of the snake and thought how lucky you were that it wasn’t a tiger, brown or red belly but thought you possibly wouldn’t know what they liked like anyway to know that was a python. Was most amazed that you stopped to take pictures so up close and personal…. so you must have known all along it was a python, right? That’s why you stayed to take pics ? Don’t hang around to take pictures of the poisonous ones ok? They’re not so friendly. Enjoy your travels and xmas xoxo
Your pictures continue to be amazing – the snake was more than a little scary!! Have a wonderful holiday! Are you continue your travels next year? When are you even going to return Stateside – of course, new leadership makes it discouraging!!
Mary & Joe,
Others have expressed themselves better than I can, however I continue to enjoy your travels. I was surprised to learn that you will be back in Melbourne for Christmas. So I will be wishing you a very Merry Christmas & a very happy & healthy New Year! As well as to continue your exploration of Oz. Your notations under each photo are excellent too. Say how ’bout that low bridge that. You nearly lost your heads over. & joe thinking he wrode over a speed bump when in fact in fact it turned outto be a python . Oh good god, Mary I can see this adventure be coming a movie!
I would LOVE to test those waves on a surfboard!
Last year I ran over a snake on my bicycle; unfortunately, this little guy (Florida Indigo Racer) didn’t fare so well. It broke my heart. But glad Joe – and your snake – both survived! Merry-Merry and much love to you both from Don and me!